Termites are a major threat to any residential property. Left unchecked, termites will eat away at your home’s structure, leading to costly damage and putting the occupants at risk.
The technicians at EJ’s Pest Control know how to spot the telltale signs of a termite infestation. We’ll look in crawl spaces, basements and elsewhere to make sure your home is safe. If termites are detected, we’ll put together an effective treatment plan.
We recommend you get your home inspected once a year.
Call 202-455-9924 today to schedule an appointment.
Unfortunately, many insurance plans don’t cover damage caused by termites. Don’t be caught off guard by a costly repair bill! Hire EJ’s Pest Control to inspect your residence in:
This is a summary of the termite treatment requires anywhere from 80 to 200 gallons of finished solution depending on the size of the house, so it helps out quite a bit to be able to treat everything at once with the help of a large spray rig. A homeowner normally does not have access to a 100 gallon spray rig, so it is much more time consuming. Most homeowners use a 5 gallon bucket. Since subterranean termites come from the ground, the goal is to put a complete chemical barrier around the structure. This is achieved by trenching where there is dirt against your foundation, and drilling where there is concrete against your foundation.
I use a trench tool, I dig a six-inch wide and six-inch deep trench directly against the your foundation everywhere the ground comes up to the structure. Once the trench is complete it is filled with 4 gallons of mixed the chemical per 10 feet of trench. Then I use a one gallon sprayer to mix and spray the chemical with.
Once the trench is filled with the proper amount of chemical, I cover the trench back with the dirt that was removed. I always use the dirt that I place back in the trench to be treated also, so that you have a complete barrier against your house and no untreated soil. Then your ground becomes soaked up the chemical, than I will pour extra chemical on the backfill as I am pushing it back into the trench so it will be treated also.
For your garage, porch, patios, or other contiguous slabs against the home where you cannot trench, I will need to get the chemical underneath the concrete against the foundation by drilling holes. But you don’t have a garage so I will only drill on the porch. To do this I will use a hammer drill with a 1/2″ x 18″ drill bit. I will drill holes through the concrete about 2 to 3 inches away from the wall or foundation, and about every 10″-12″ apart, only on the seam where the concrete is against the foundation. I will not only drill through just the concrete here, but also as deep as you can into the dirt. The deeper the better. Once the holes are drilled, I will fill at the same rate you did the trench, 4 gallons per 10 feet. If you drilled the holes 12 inches apart, then you would have 10 holes over 10 feet that you are trying to fill with 4 gallons. This works out to be a little less than half a gallon per hole. To fill these I will use the one gallon sprayer on a “pin stream” setting so you can force the liquid down the hole and not splash it everywhere. Once the holes are filled all I will need to do is patch them with a concrete patch.
I use a chemical that will last for 10+ years in the soil, but it is also one of the most expensive chemical made on earth for termites.
For me to do the front and back treatment the cost will vary between $400-1,500, based on size of area, with a one year warranty. I would suggest that you do it soon because the termites is eating a away on your siding just a little but termites multiply a lot. You have the workers and the soldier termites. The soldiers guard the queen termites (domain) and the workers eat away at your soil.
You may realize that you have termites in your home after you identify certain warning signs. Similarly, you can also recognize a qualified termite specialist by certain signs. A qualified termite specialist should possess the following qualities:
Termites are often called the “silent destroyer” because they may be secretly hiding and thriving in your home or yard without any immediate signs of damage. All termites consume cellulose-based plant materials. Unfortunately, all homes, regardless of their construction type, can provide cellulose food for termite infestation.
Termites are detritivores, or detritus feeders. They feed on dead plants and trees as well as dead parts of living trees, including wood and wood in the soil. A termite’s mouth is capable of tearing pieces of woody material. This ability is what causes concern in human dwellings: while termite workers only measure approximately 1 cm to a few millimeters in length, their feeding habits are capable of causing costly damage to property. House foundations, furniture, shelves and even books are all possible feeding sites for termites.
Subterranean termite homes are usually formed in soil. Within these mounds, termites build elaborate tunnel systems and mud tunnels through which they access above-ground food sources. Drywood termites live within the wood they consume and oftentimes infest walls and furniture.
When a colony has matured, winged, swarming termites can be seen around windows and doors. Winged termites are highly attracted to sources of light and are most active in springtime. After mating, these termites locate a new breeding site and create another colony, spreading infestations throughout multiple locations in the case of drywood termites.
Since termites are a constant threat to your home, here are some things you can do during the year to help maintain the effectiveness of The Orkin Man’s termite treatment plan. Small steps make a big difference in termite prevention and sustaining an effective termite treatment plan. Start by eliminating moisture conditions and termite food around your home. These simple steps make your home a less attractive target, helping deter termites.
Eliminate Moisture Problems
Remove Termite Food Sources
Termite Warning Signs & Identification